Wardrobe File: The Duffle Coat

The name of the duffle coat originated from the heavy wool fabric manufactured in Antwerp, Belgium in the town of Duffel.  During World War I, the British Royal Navy issued a tan colored duffel coat for it's warmth and durability at sea.  The toggle fasteners were designed to be easily fastened and unfastened while wearing gloves, and the oversized hood helped accomodate a sailor's naval cap.

British Navy sailors sporting early Duffle coats, 1919
via Brian Wollaston, maritimequest.com

The British Army Officer Bernard Montgomery sported the coat during World War II, were it garnered the nickname "Monty Coat."  

Due to surplus coats after the war, the coat became a popular preppy item in the 50's and 60's and became popular in the sporting world, among Hollywood celebrities, and on college campuses across the country.  They were distributed mainly by the British company Gloverall, who still produce the original duffel coat today.

All images via Gloverall.com

No matter whether you call it a duffle, Monty, or toggle, the coat is an essential addition to any man (or woman's) wardrobe.  It's simple, practical, and can be dressed up or down, making it a great, versatile coat with nearly one hundred years of tradition.


Duffle bags share the same origin, as they were first made from the same woolen material.

Holy Cow!: The Monk Strap

Sid Mashburn via GQ

I have always admired the simplicity and sophistication of the monk strap style shoe.  As its namesake suggests, it was modeled after a centuries old tradition of buckled footwear worn by monks in Europe.  According to legend, the first pairs were worn by friars in the Italian Alps during the fifteenth century.  Upon visiting his fellow clergymen in Italy, an English friar, impressed with their simplicity, took home a pair, where they became an instant hit.


Touted for their comfort, as a result of a wider tongue than traditional lace-ups and buckle closure on the side, the monk is the perfect shoe for day and night.  Made in both single and double strap, plain or cap-toe, brogued or burnished, I prefer the subtle flair of a double strap and capped toe in a versatile burnished brown.  It strikes the right balance, worn either dressed-up or casual, and personally, I think they're just nice to look at.

Image via JohnLobb

When it comes to monks, John Lobb, the revered English bootmaker since 1849, makes the crème de la crème.  When Hermès acquired the company back in 1976, it left the original John Lobb bespoke shoe shop intact on St. James St, London.  The shop continues to produce bench-made shoes for discerning clients from around the world one shoe at a time.  Thanks to Hermès, however, ready-made shoes by John Lobb can be found at any of their shops around the world.

Image via SidMashburn

While the John Lobb William II Monk leaves something to be desired, the price tag at $1275 is not as alluring.  Enter Sid Mashburn, the Atlanta based clothier, who brings the same English bench-made appeal and killer styling at half the price.  Pictured at top, these shoes are the Real McCoy of versatility and style.  With the dedication of Mr. Mashburn to quality with respect to tradition, it is no wonder why these shoes are one of his most popular items.  Check out his inspiration, and browse the site for many more goodies.

The Blazer: The Story of an Icon

Due to the overwhelming response to my post on A Brief History of the Bass Weejun a few months back, I wanted to continue this tradition by bringing you interesting tidbits of sartorial history.  I think this stuff is way cool and love researching it; hopefully you'll learn a thing or two along the way.  Let's begin with the basics - the blazer.


There is nothing as quintessential to every man's wardrobe than the classic navy blazer.  While the modern blazer comes in a variety of cuts, patterns, and styles the original came in one fit and color.  Here's a hint: it wasn't blue.

May Bumps Garden Party at Lady Margaret Boat Club

The term originated from the crimson jackets worn by members of the Lady Margaret Boat Club of St. John's College, Cambridge.  The 'blaze' of vibrant color gave rise to the term blazer, which became popular club dress throughout 19th century Britain.  By the 1880s striped blazers, usually in club colors, gained popularity in cricket, tennis, and boating.

Early American blazers
 via Dressing the Man by Alan Flusser

By the 1920s, style savvy American men sported nautical blue and white pinstripe and solid color 'sport coats' to events and during leisure activities.  Double breasted versions appeared as well, influenced by the reefer jackets worn by the British navy, similar to the modern pea coat.  By the 30s a variety of other solid colors became fashionable from pastel blues to hunter greens, yet navy established itself as the preferred work to weekend color of choice.

Image via Rugby

While today the navy blazer still reigns supreme, heritage inspired jackets are making a comeback, such as this cricket jacket in the Rugby fall 2011 collection.  No matter two or three buttons, madras or tweed, crimson or navy, the blazer is a classic and will continue to define men's style for generations to come.